sometimes life feels like that, doesn't it? like you're being pummeled into every which direction, and just when you break for air, you get sucked back under and you lose your swimsuit and you curse yourself for wearing a bikini. not that i'm speaking from experience or anything like that.
but we've all been there, right? the waves just keep rolling in and you feel kind of helpless. like a toy ship being smashed to bits by the force of the water.
but then - oh then - there's this:
the cool ass surfer dudes. focused. calm. collected. confident and fearless in the face of the mightiest of forces. and even off the job, these guys and girls are so laid back, so chill. i love this attitude.
because it's never about mastering the environment and the situation perfectly, but simply about learning how to ride the waves. finding the funnel of opportunity before it all comes crashing down and just l~i~v~i~n~g in the moment. there's such a rush, with the adrenaline pumping through your body and you get addicted to actually chasing the waves, instead of working to avoid them.
learning to ride is incredibly hard. it requires the best of you - grace, agility, pure focus, discipline, intuition. i have such respect for life's masters. some people really know how to move with style and they just make you wanna surf in your own right.
sometimes i feel like such a baby surfer and other times i feel like i'm just getting the shit kicked out of me. but every so often, i get these magic moments where the tide is just right and my body aligns into focus with my mind and soul and it all gels together. like butter.
hang 10 dudes.
(nyc)
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